We are very proud to manufacture all our leather goods and clothing here in the UK and alongside our own in-house workshop we work with some incredible makers that are integral to bringing our designs to life.
Recently we met with Hannah Cope of Cope Studios, who has worked with us since the early days. A super talented maker and a joy to work with, Hannah’s factory in Margate has produced many designs for us over the years so we thought what better way to celebrate manufacturing in the UK than sharing her story and shining a spotlight on her incredible skills.
Describe your journey in getting into leatherwork…
The first time I made anything out of leather was helping out a friend in my spare time because he had started his own label and paid me in friendship and tea. It turned out I had a knack for it and was unfulfilled in my office job so I gave in and became his assistant. The brand made luxury bondage wear initially and then moved into accessories. Following on from there I set up a studio with another leatherworker who taught me how to pattern cut bags and we set up a business together doing what I do now.
What drew you to leather as a material?
I wouldn't say I was drawn to leather for any reason, but I like to work with it because it takes a lot of skill and care. Almost everything is on show so the craftmanship is easy to read. I like that it ages well and improves over time. I like that it's sustainable in the most part; partly by being a side product of the food industry, but more so that the products last years if they're well looked after.
What is your favourite part of the process of making a product?
I like all the stages equally but the most satisfying is stepping back to look at the final product knowing that a few days ago it was just a flat piece of leather. Making an individual sample or bespoke product is really pleasing because you can take real care over every piece. It loses a bit of lustre when you're making 20 or so on a production line of course but it's still a great feeling packing them into a box to ship off to the customer.
What would the perfect day in your studio be?
In the summer we can open the roller shutter and work half inside and outside. We play music and drink tea while we work and if I have my assistant working then we gossip and share our news. It's a bit of a romantic idea to think we're sitting around doing craftwork and nattering like in the olden times, but it can be like that. You're working on a production line doing really repetitive work and sometimes you don't need to concentrate very hard and can just enjoy doing something with your hands and being a bit creative.
Was having your own factory always the goal?
I saw the business as more of a studio that would work on many creative projects in many different sectors. I wasn't especially drawn to the fashion industry but that was where we had the most interest and a lot of new business is word of mouth. As clients we worked with got bigger and orders got larger, we got more machinery and could take on bigger orders. Before Covid I did think "This is going good maybe it will become a small factory" but then it was chaos and orders were reduced or dropped or cancelled and it never really got the kick it needed so I think it suits me better to have a smaller studio-style factory where I'm the main maker and i have assistants where needed. Perhaps I'm too much of a control freak. Having said all that, who knows what the future will hold.
Which is your favourite Kate Sheridan style to make and why?
I would probably say the half bags (Half pop, Half lock etc) because it's a tried and tested technique from the Tab bag family but the size is easier to handle. I really dislike anything with linings, especially if they have zip pockets!
Can you remember the first style you made for us?
I imagine it would have been a Popper bag as it was called then but now I think you call it a Double Dot bag.
What hopes do you have for the future of UK manufacture?
I'd love to see it grow and more people have opportunities to make lifelong careers out of working in manufacturing but unfortunately there aren't any really big leather goods factories to give that kind of security. Lots of the larger brands are forced abroad because we don't have capacity and then because everyone is manufacturing abroad there aren't any factories here to approach. It's chicken and the egg. There are very few brands that would pay a little bit more to have things made in the UK when they can get it cheaper elsewhere. Unfortunately, that's just capitalism.